May 8, 2000
I have been boring you with the same old beautiful, sunny days and perfect sails for long enough. It's time to spice things up a little.
We left Royal Island at first light, about 6:30am. We had to go through a tricky cut with reefs along one edge and out into the beautiful Atlantic we went. It felt so good to be on the ocean again. Sailing with us were Eric and Susan and 2 other boats left just a few minutes earlier than us with the same destination. Eric and Susan's boat is about 5 feet longer than ours is and they left us in their wake after about an hour. It was about that time that, after we had raised all 3 sails and only had our engine on to charge the batteries, that it died. Sputter and stop. Bob went down to check a few things out, then called Eric just to let them know that we would be in late. Little Harbour, Abacos is 56 miles away and we average 5 knots per hour. About an 11-hour trip plus a little extra to anchor. Working things out, we should be in about 6:30pm. Dark comes at 7:30 with a half-hour of semi-darkness before it goes black. The wind is blowing in the perfect direction at about 13 knots and we are sailing fine and although coming into an anchorage without sails is tough, coming into an anchorage under sail at night in the Bahamas is ludicrous. Bob had his head down in the engine for several hours, changing filters and bleeding the engine and all of those manly things. When he came up for air, he started the engine to give it a try, with no success. At this point, we have tried unsuccessfully to get our steering vane to steer for us and it doesn't want to perform today either. I have been hand steering now for several hours. My back and arms and legs are starting to ache so Bob takes the helm for awhile while I have a little catnap. When I wake up, splash some cool water on my face and take over the helm again, Bob calls Eric on the VHF and they have a question and answer period. Then Bob gets out the Yanmar manual and reads up. He tries a few more things and is still unsuccessful.
OK, we're not having the best day but certainly not the worst. It's a gorgeous day with just about enough wind to stay cool in the tropical sun. Until about 2:00pm. The wind dies down to about 8 knots. We are still able to keep all of the sails up but they begin to luff from time to time and our speed drops down to 2 ½ knots. At this pace, we won't get in until way past dark so we need to talk about our options. There are at least 4 boats that could help us out when we get there. The cut going into the anchorage in the Abacos has some real nasty reefs along the east side. We are warned time and again about entering an unfamiliar anchorage in the dark. It's a nice day and will be a nice night. Taking all of those things into account, we decide that we can just sail around all night, one of us at the helm or keeping watch and the other tucked under a blanket outside in the cockpit. We've survived much worse; we can do this.
It's 6:00pm and we are still sailing with only 7-8 knots of wind. Even though we have the very doable option of staying out all night, silently, we both are hoping to make it in by dark.
By now, the other boats are all anchored and eating dolphin that one of the boats caught. We have been in radio contact with them and as the time draws closer, radio contact gets more frequent. There are at least 5 dinghies that are planning to come out and guide us in. We don't know exactly their plan yet and we don't even know if we will attempt it yet.
It's 7:00pm and we're close. The wind picks up to 12 knots and if it stays, we'll make it just in time. The other boats have us on radar. By now, they can see us by eye. They estimate that we can make it and we all decide to go for it. Frank from "Vagabond Tiger" takes charge. The dinghies all come out with their assortment of VHF radios, spotlights, flashlights and life vests. I have our portable VHF radio in the cockpit. We have rigged one line up on the bow for possible towing and one line on each side of the boat amidships. I am now in communication with all of the dinghies by radio and we see the first 2 dinghies with binoculars. We lower the headsail, which leaves us with the staysail and mainsail up. Frank lets us know who is where and which dinghies to follow first and which dinghy is marking the reef. Bob on "Shamal" has a 25 HP motor on his dinghy and he reaches us first and ties up next to our boat and helps us to steer and also gives us some power. We furl in the headsail, which just leaves the main. We follow Frank and Dee in their dinghy with a strobe light. Ben from "Side by Side" (catamaran) is in his dinghy with a huge spotlight. He is there to show us that a long line of reefs is to his right and we are to stay left of him. Another dinghy comes out to offer their support. We get in the cut just fine and now we have to turn to starboard (right), into the wind so the sail luffs and we stop the boat in enough water to anchor. We turn the corner, go up a little ways, far enough from the other boats so we don't crash into them, the boat slows down, we drop the anchor, a dinghy tied on each side of us throws their engines in reverse, our anchor is set…no it's dragging. We drag back some and it finally takes hold. We pull down the mainsail, tie up all of the lines while all of the dinghies come over to the boat. We thank them wholeheartedly, and "cheers" all around for a fine job done. We gab for awhile and everyone takes off except for Eric and Bob (from "Shamal"). These are the 2 guys we are hoping will help fix our engine.
By now it's getting late, about 9:00pm. They come below, survey the problem, find the problem, talk about what tools and equipment they will need to fix the problem and take off in their dinghies for them. Within minutes they are back, tools in hand. They find that the Racor filter is full of "gook" and a hose is leaking air. Well, no problem is simple and it takes them quite a while to clean out the gook. It was so caked full that it looked like years of accumulation. The Racor is cleaned, a new filter put in, the hose cut and reclamped and the drum roll is on…turn the key. No engine. They make another adjustment (who can keep up with these guys?), we turn the key again and poof! The sweet sound of that wonderful engine. I never thought I would enjoy the smell of diesel but I was in heaven.
Not only were we in a bind without the engine to motor us but right now it was the only source of charging our batteries and keeping our power supply. We were beginning to lose our refrigeration and in not too long, we would be out of lights, radio power, water pressure power, etc., etc. The galley was a mess. Dirty, oily rags all over but boy were we happy. We fed the guys a beer and they went home about 11:00pm, we cleaned up the boat, hit the pillows and were out like a light.
If there is nothing else I have learned to appreciate in this sailing adventure, it is the goodness of people. These cruisers out here are some of the nicest bunch of folks there are. They never hesitate to be of assistance, to help in anyway they can. Be if food, water, fuel, moral support or whatever, they are there for you. And, that is 24 hours a day, you can count on your neighbor.
May 12, 2000
A full day it was. First, I had to go over to this little, teeny restaurant called Sharkey's. We were throwing a pizza party to thank all who helped us in our "predicament" the other day and to thank Dylan who had his head in our generator most of the day. Sharkey's only has 4 tables so we wanted to reserve the whole restaurant, which they 
allowed us to do. They also borrowed another table and more chairs from the motel next door. Then, since I was already ashore, by myself, being that Bob's head was in the generator right next to Dylan's, I decided to do a little window-shopping. We are throwing my mom a special birthday party in August so I thought I might find a nice dress for the occasion. Also, there may have been one or two jewelry stores along the way. I had a nice morning and dinghied back to the boat to find the guys were just ready to throw the switch on the generator and give it a try. It started up on the first try. Bob and Dylan ran around checking gauges and gave the thumbs up. The generator is located in the lazarette (lift open part of a seat in the cockpit and its underneath) and the seat had been tied to stay open and not come crashing down on Dylan's head. So, we all did high fives and congratulated Dylan on a fine job while I started getting out lunch materials to feed the fine boys. It was about 85 degrees out and probably about 110 degrees in the lazarette where Dylan was working. We were all three inside the boat when Dylan, so relieved to have the job completed successfully, declared himself hot, took off his shirt and flung it up into the cockpit…..right into the open seat of the running generator! There was a chug and this other really nasty noise and then smoke. Dylan ran up the stairs with Bob on his tail and I turned off the generator. Dylan got back down there and was handing up scraps of shirt. Bob was a bit worried and I was almost in tears. We had the generator running for about 2 minutes, I was just washing out the ice cube trays, looking forward to getting our freezer up and running again. So, Dylan spends the next 45 minutes down there, pulling out wads of shirt, cutting and reclamping hose and whatever else he needed to do. A turn of the key and that generator is working like a charm.
The pizza party was great. Everyone was able to make it (cruisers are notoriously available and prompt for free food) including: "Greensleeves", "Elysia", "Vagabond Tiger", Side by Side", "Zaftra", and "Shamal". We brought a case of beer and after we ate 5 pizzas, we sat around and these guys are funny. I mean really funny so we had a great time. We were talking about Spanish Wells and how it's a whole island of inbreeds, everyone looking pretty much like their cousins, neighbors and even spouses. Eric said, "I'd hate to have to try to solve a murder there by DNA testing."
Today (13th) we will do some odd jobs, I'm going to try to get my hair cut within an inch of itself and we'll get ready to sail off tomorrow to parts nearby.
I just copied some pictures from one disc to another and deleted my best pictures. What a shame. I am going to try to get this off to Erin to post on the web page today.
Our Magellan GSC 100 is permanently defunct. We will be checking our Pocketmail from time to time. Please write us at:Mutualfun@pocketmail.com
In the future, we may be buying another method of e-mailing through the single side band but for now please use this address. PLEASE, no jokes and no chain letters. We pay about $1 per minute. Thanks.
May 17, 2000
We are now in Man of War Cay, about 6 miles from Hope Town. We have been here for a couple of days with all of our friends, eating, drinking and being merry. The rest of the boats left today for an island nearby. We had more boat maintenance to attend to and weren't really motivated to move today. We worked on our propane grill, which hasn't worked from day 1. And still doesn't. We worked on our autopilot which only works after we sink a whole bunch of money into it, and then only for a short while. And it still doesn't work. We did take down our headsail to be restitched, which is always a real treat. You have to picture this sail is HUGE. We have to take it down when at anchor, that way you are assured of being in the wind. We talked everything over first but it still doesn't prepare you for what may happen. The wind was only blowing 7 or 8 knots and we knew it was a good day to do it. First we had to let the sail all of the way out and it starts flapping around like it has a life of its own. As Bob is taking it down off of the track, I have to try to keep it out of the water. And this thing is HUGE. As I go forward to help, one of the lines catches under my arm and almost rips out my left armpit. Then it catches me under my chin and threatens to rip my face off. Finally I get it (myself) under control and Bob lets loose and of course, the sail starts into the water. I risk life and limb, well; actually I risk a refreshing dunk in the water, and go after that bad boy and get it on deck. Now, the sail doesn't want to lay flat, of course, so it's jumping all over the boat and we're trying to keep it flat. Finally I just do a swan dive and land on it face first. We finally get it all tied in an unneat bundle and now we have to pack it into the dinghy and take it to shore. It takes up most of the dinghy so I sort of sit on top of it while Bob steers. Once we get it to the dock, we notice that luck would not be with us and it's low tide and we have to haul that huge thing WAY up to the dock. We finally park next to a power boat that has a dive platform, hoist the sail up to that, help ourselves to boarding someone else's boat without permission, walk the sail around to the side and stagger off the boat together, both hauling this sail. We take it to the shop and wouldn't you know he's on the second floor. At this point, I am an out-of-breath sweatball and the sailmaker is kind enough to help Bob take it upstairs. The sail will be ready in a week, which means about 2 so we might as well go sail around.
Yesterday I sensed rain in the air (could be because it was cloudy and sprinkling. I'm really catching on to this weather thing) so I got out the mop, boat soap and yellow slicker over the bathing suit and went at it. The whole boat got a good washing (otherwise known as swabbing) from bow to stern. I rinsed off with the salt-water wash down, put the mop down and it started pouring. I was dancing for joy to see the boat rinsed off with real fresh water. All of the stainless steel sparkled and the fiberglass and teak looked great. I got rid of my slicker and stood out in the rain and rinsed myself off. It was pretty chilly so I didn't stay out long. Most of the day was rainy and we had a nice "inside" day.
Late in the day the sun came out. "Greensleeves" called me to go snorkeling. I tried to rouse Your Captainness but he wasn't having any. I actually banged around getting ready because I knew he would miss out on some fun but he was really zonked. We picked up "Elysia" and had to dinghy out a few miles to find some reefs but when we did, they were great. Dylan speared a hogfish and a grouper. We came back around the island, stopped at "Shamal" and "Vagabond Tiger" and invited everyone for a fish fry. Dylan cleaned them. Eric grilled the hogfish. Susan fried the grouper and made a salad, Dee made an appetizer, Elizabeth brought wine and I made a huge pasta salad. The food was great and the company was even better. We all gathered aboard "Mutual Fun" and had another great evening.
As I got all comfy in bed last night, I realized that Bob's swim trunks were drying on the line right above my window. The wind picked up and they were really flapping away. I knew I should get up and take them down but I was just too lazy. All night long I kept waking up and hearing that flapping. Bob asked this morning if I slept well last night and I told him about the trunks and that I kept thinking we were under sail. He said we weren't under sail, we were under pants.
The wind is really howling out there tonight. It's going to be a long night of making sure our anchor doesn't drag. Better get some sleep right after I take down the bathing trunks.
May 24, 2000
Moved over to a dock today so the autopilot guy could have a look. After waiting all day for him, I got bored and invited a bottom cleaner over to scrub the bottom of the boat. Huge hunks of tree-like things came floating off as he scrubbed. He dives down with a Hooka, which is a long tube connected to an air compressor. It took him about 1½ hours. He also put a new zinc around the propeller for us. This is a sacrificial metal used to keep the other metals under the boat healthy. The electricity that naturally accumulates in the water will eat the weakest metal, which is the zinc, instead of the way more important stainless steel bolts. Well, the verdict from the autopilot guy is that the brain is dead. Again. We just paid $500 for a new brain last Fall in Camden. Well, we're going there again soon. I'm already drafting a letter to Navico, the brand of autopilot we own.
So, to many sailors, a night at the marina is the cat's meow. To me, no thank you. First, the boat isn't turned into the wind so it's hot. Second, it's buggy. Third, it's expensive. And my complaints aren't necessarily in that order. The shower was nice. We haven't had a stand-up, normal shower since we were home in April. But heck, it's only May so it wasn't that big of a deal.
Tomorrow, hopefully, we will find a piece of the day when the wind isn't strong and we can get the headsail up. This morning we awoke to nasty looking skies and rain was soon to follow. We kept our eye on "Elysia" as their crew arrived and their dinghy was aboard and they were ready to head out for Beaufort. The thunderstorms rolled through and "Elysia" took off about 11:00am. We called them on VHF radio and wished them a safe trip. "Vagabond Tiger" left about 3:00pm from a much more northern location. They aren't nuts about all-night sailing and wanted to crop a little ocean sailing off by moving further north up the Abacos. "Zaftra" opted to watch the weather for another day or two, as two low-pressure systems are moving this way. We may make the run with them in a couple of days. We all meet on SSB radio 3 times a day. I volunteered to take their positions for safety sake and the 2 boats crossing now will want to know where the other is. They won't make a point to try to stay together because it's impossible but right now for instance, after sailing almost 12 hours; they are 60 miles apart. That's pretty good.
Grocery shopping, top off our fuel tank, deflate and bring aboard the dinghy and we're ready to roll.
May 28, 2000
Boy, it's getting really hot here. The heat of the day starts about 8:30am, maybe about 85 degrees and works its way up to around 90 degrees. Me, the sun freak can't even be out on deck in the midday heat. We usually have a nap midday, just like the natives. Now I understand why they have this ritual. After our nap today we dinghied out to Mermaid's Reef and had a wonderful swim and snorkel. Slipping into the water with fins, mask and snorkel was like being totally engulfed in velvet. There were many jellyfish around but they were of some variety that was real small and you couldn't see any tentacles. Neither one of us got stung. There among the entire beautiful assortment of colorful fish was this HUGE grouper. This guy must have been over 4 feet long and really meaty. This is a protected area and the visitors supposedly feed him Cheez-whiz because it squirts under water. We didn't have any treats for him so he gave us the hairy eyeball. If I hadn't known about him and warned Bob, we probably would have gone scurrying for the dinghy. One of the other snorklers nearby saw a barracuda but we didn't get a glimpse.
Tonight we had dinner at the Jib Room where we found out that our boat has spent the last 5 years at their marina, as Shamrock, with her past owners. As the saying goes, it's a small world.
While I am babbling to you all, I am also receiving weather fax. This is a whole, new world for me. "Shamal" installed the program for us last Fall in Annapolis and I used it very little since then. Now, trying to make wise decisions for our return crossing, I had to start all over with the learning process again and it isn't bunches of fun. After I figured out what frequencies to use on SSB, I got the schedules of the different weather centers and had to figure out which ones were applicable to our area and which were a waste of our time. Then I had to fine-tune the program itself. Once I felt pretty comfortable with those things (about 2 weeks), I had to learn to interpret what I was looking at. The most important is the U.S. surface analysis report. This shows me the High and Low pressure systems; where they are, how they are formed, how many milibars of pressure and how steep the gradient. Sound boring? Phew! Also on these reports are fronts, whether they are cold or warm; which direction they are moving or whether they are stationary. It shows thunderstorms, cyclonic action (hurricanes) and more. The next most important fax is the wind and sea report, which reports just that. The direction and speed of the wind and the height of the waves. These are done in 2 different reports; what is happening now, 12 hour, 24 hour and 36 hour forecasts. There is also a written report that gives a weather synopsis in writing by longitude and latitude. For some reason, this report usually skips our area. And lastly, there is a satellite picture of the whole United States.
Now, OK; all of this is fine and dandy but what do these things mean? Well, I've been picking people's brains and reading, reading, reading. I have managed to learn quite a bit in the last couple of weeks but mostly how much more I have to learn.
Our reports for tonight show me that right now there is a Low pressure area with a cold front moving through the area that we plan to sail to; Beaufort. Winds will be high and so will the seas. The system should move out by tomorrow. This is bringing winds to the north, which is very bad since we are trying to sail north, and high seas, which isn't my first choice, But, this system will blow by and by the time we arrive, we should be OK. Unless, of course, one of these other Low pressure systems gains strength and takes its place. Or, they are simply wrong. Or…there are many ors. Bottom line, we accumulate as much information as we can get and just go for it. If we hit a storm, it won't be the first time and probably not the last. Hurricanes, fortunately, we should have plenty of notice about. Those are not to be messed with.
We will probably top off our water supply tomorrow morning and head for Green Turtle Cay. If the weather still looks as favorable as right now, we will leave for Beaufort Tuesday morning. I am trying to mentally prepare myself for sleep deprivation. I do this by avoiding thinking of it. So far, it's working.
Another beautiful day brings us to Royal Island. The wind was directly behind us, which didn't allow us to sail until the last hour but we were happy motoring. Here we met a bunch of other cruisers at "happy hour", which was held at some ruins up on shore. Three of the boats are waiting for a weather window to cross to Bermuda and then to the Azores and from there to Europe. One couple that we met, Robin and Deiter are an amazement to me. Deiter looks like he will be fine but Robin greeted us with high-heeled sandals, painted red toes and legs up to there. Her arms are about a fourth of the size of mine and she must weigh all of 95 pounds. She's never made more than one overnight crossing and they are planning this trip to Bermuda. Robin is going to be very surprised. I hope their weather is OK and they make it safe and sound.
(pronounced Klick), which is the local beer. After a nice lunch, we waked the town and then went across to the beach and had a swim. The water felt wonderful although Bob is not fond of the sharks and won't go out very far. A few more boat chores and now we're going to make a nice dinner tonight. All of the other boats we have been with have scattered although we are not far from each other.